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Keeping it clean in the bush

Shower Power Guide

 

 

When heading bush, it’s easy to go days without a shower but even after three days, I hate myself enough to pull out some baby wipes. Thankfully, there are some great options out there, ranging from downright cheap to having to switch from steak to snags to afford them, that will have you clean and smelling better in no time. The only problem now is not getting caught in your birthday suit while enjoying a shower in the bush. Most options have multiple uses so that makes them even more beneficial.

READ THIS ARTICLE IN OUR ONLINE MAGAZINE

Portable LPG Hot Water Units

These little units are perfect for those who carry LPG and love the thought of hot water on demand. It’s as easy as hooking up to the gas bottle, connecting a water source and attaching a shower hose. Turn the dials to adjust water flow and temperature, flick the switch on the shower head and within seconds you will have instantaneous hot water. An easy to read LCD display allows you to accurately monitor the water temperature, with a safety gauge restricting it to a maximum of 50°C.

 

A water pump is required to enable you to pull water from almost anywhere, be it a bucket, jerry can, river or lake, however it must be connected to 12V power. A couple of D-cell batteries are used for the ignition system.

 

Portability: 3/5 

Ease of use: 4/5 

Environmental: 4/5

 

Propane Heated Units

Portable hot water units that use propane are similar in size and weight to the LPG units but offer greater versatility when it comes to showers. They can be set up anywhere you like, however, the shower hose isn’t very long so needs to sit on something flat (table, bull bar). They can suck a bit of gas too, so a propane bottle will only last a few showers. You can buy a POL hose kit to run the units using LPG.

 

Some models do come with their own collapsible water storage container that folds up small when empty. The battery that runs the pump lasts less than the propane bottle so keep that in mind. The LCD displays temperature control with some units restricting water temperature to 50°C +/- 2°C while others heat water to 30°C above source water temperature.

 

Portability: 3/5  

Ease of use: 4/5  

Environmental: 3/5

 

Heat Exchange Units

When I began 4WDing, a heat exchanger under the bonnet was a popular choice for tourers. Most units can be a DIY install, but you must be confident in what you’re doing as you’ll need to cut into the heater hose. Some coolant will be lost during the install so make sure you have some to top up your radiator. They heat water by running engine coolant through a copper coil at the same time as water passes through the unit.

 

The temperature can be altered by adjusting the heater switch in the vehicle cab. If a 12V pump is installed as well, you can pull water from almost anywhere and enjoy a hot shower. Otherwise, a portable pump can also be used to suck water from a bucket or jerry can.

 

Portability: 4/5   

Ease of use: 4/5  

Environmental: 2/5

 

Solar Heated Units: Road Shower/PVC Pipe

DIYers have been constructing PVC tubes to use as water carriers/showers for years. Recently a bloke in the US modernised the designed, constructing them out of black aluminium and named it the Road Shower. With three sizes (15, 26 and 42 litres), the latest models can be pressurised via household water pressure or with compressed air. These units can get scalding hot, so it is best to test the temperature before stripping a layer of skin off your body.

 

Portability: 5/5  

Ease of use: 5/5  

Environmental: 5/5

 

Solar Showers

This is one of the cheapest and simplest options. The solar showers are compact and roll up easily when not in use and most units take up to 20 litres of water. All you need to do is fill them up and lay them in the sun with the black side facing up and you will have hot water within a few hours. But remember, 20L = 20kg so you need some strength to lift it over your head to hang on a tree branch at a height where the hose hangs down. If the hose has an upward direction, the flow is severely restricted.

 

Portability: 5/5   

Ease of use: 5/5  

Environmental: 5/5

 

12V/240V Units

Popular in RVs, the Duoetto Portable Hot Water System is a unit that switches automatically to 12V when no 240V is detected. Power hungry when on 12V the unit draws 25 amps. The water temperature is selectable between 30-75°C on 240V but fixed at 70°C on 12V. The unit holds 10 litres of water in its stainless steel tank (weighs 16kg when full) and takes around 20 minutes to heat up, as well as connecting to a water source to add cold water. A 12V water pump is also required. Perfect for a Troopy, not sure it will fit in a Jimmy though.

 

Portability: 2/5  

Ease of use: 3/5  

Environmental: 3/5

 

Sticking to the Basics

Sometimes the simple things in life are the best. A metal bucket and 12V camp hose with pump, canvas bag with shower rose or eco pocket showers full of water heated on a fire or stove is perfect for the job. Simple and easy, unless of course you’re Russell Coight.

 

Portability:  5/5 

Ease of use: 5/5  

Environmental: 4/5

 

Baby Wipes (Rubbish Choice)

Wet wipes aren’t just for cleaning a baby’s bum, they are perfect for ‘freshening’ up when water is scarce, or you don’t have any of the above options. They do however increase landfill, block sewers and septic systems and burn poorly.

Portability:  5/5  

Ease of use:  5/5 

Environmental: 1/5

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Plug-and-play wiring loom install

Is this wiring loom from Lightforce as easy to install as they say?

 

 

By now, you would have seen our unboxing video on the new Lightforce Striker LED driving light. And you might have seen the destruction testing we undertook on these lights a few weeks back. Well, we thought it was about time we showed you just how easy the latest LED driving light from Lightforce is to wire. Now, Lightforce have claimed that the supplied wiring loom is fully labelled, showing you which wire does what, and where it goes.

CHECK OUT OUR INSTALL VIDEO IN OUR DIGITAL MAGAZINE HERE

They also promote it as being a plug-and-play install, meaning anyone that can physically hold a spanner should be able to install them. Editor Ev worked as a vehicle fitter in a previous life, and as such he tells us the job would usually take about an hour and a half to complete depending on how grumpy the foreman was. Now, if your sparky charges $100 an hour, that’s $150 minimum you will be out of pocket if you pay to have these installed. We wanted to see if we could install the LED Striker wiring loom in less than an hour and a half, and if the loom is in fact plug-and-play. Hey, if it saves you $150… that’s a win.

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Recipe: Peach & walnut French toast bake

Peaches on the beach…es

 

 

I haven’t really been able to come up with a proper introduction for this one, other than to say that it’s really, really good. Super good. I might be going on an evaporated milk bender here, but it’s only because I’ve discovered the joys of not having to care for milk and cream when I’m out without a refrigerator or Esky. This is by far one of the easiest fancy-lookin’ recipes I’ve got in my repertoire and it never fails to be a hit. Give it a go and tell me I’m wrong – I dare you!

VIEW THIS RECIPE IN OUR ONLINE MAGAZINE HERE

Serves: 4

Ingredients

One can of sliced peaches

5 eggs

4 slices of bread (or enough to cover the bottom of your camp oven

1 cup of evaporated milk

1 tbsp butter

1 tbsp maple syrup

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 tsp cinnamon

½ cup walnuts

2 tbsp caster sugar or brown sugar

 

Method

Coat the bottom of your cast iron pot in butter and lay out the sliced bread.

Whisk together the eggs, milk, maple syrup, vanilla and cinnamon.

Drain the canned peaches, making sure to reserve the liquid for later.

Pour egg mixture over the bread and peaches; sprinkle the walnuts over the top.

With a lid on, bake at a moderate heat for 20 to 30 minutes or until cooked through.

In a pan, heat peach syrup and stir in sugar; simmer until syrup thickens into a darker sauce.

Once cooked, serve the French toast with syrup poured over it.

Hold for applause from your new fans!

 

TIP: Try it with canned pears. Or berries.

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We built a custom off-road boat trailer to tackle the trails

Taking the Tinnie

CLICK HERE TO READ THIS STORY IN OUR ONLINE MAGAZINE

To the outdoor adventurer, there is quite possibly nothing more quintessentially Australian than the humble tinnie. Everyone seems to have one (or know someone who does) and if it’s anything like mine, it has been gathering leaves sitting idly in the backyard for quite some time.

 

It was probably somewhere around the fourth or fifth beer whilst sitting on the dunes on a typical clear and starry Fraser Island night that the comment was made, “Geez it’d be nice to have a boat out here.” It was at this point that the conversation swung from the usual budget-less hypothetical vehicle build banter to concepting our very own custom off-road boat trailer.

 

By the time the last whiskey nightcap was poured, planning was already well underway for what would easily rank as our most ambitious backyard engineering project to date. As a frustrated fabricator trapped in the body of a hydraulic engineer, my mate Brett would play the role of point man. Armed with a cut-off saw, a MIG welder and a fully-licensed version of Autocad, his nous and motivation for the project would prove invaluable.

 

Over the coming weeks each and every element of a typical OE roadgoing boat trailer was analysed and weaknesses were identified in an attempt to reverse engineer a reliable outcome. Member sizes, bracing (quantity and size), slipper springs and the keel roller assembly would all require thoughtful upgrading. Along with understanding weaknesses it was also important to identify other ‘nice to have’ elements based upon the destinations we would likely tow the trailer to. With planning underway for trips to Moreton Island and Cape York, engineering outcomes would be required for the rolling stock, track width, walkways, fuel storage and a drawbar extension.

 

Doubling the OE member size from 38 x 18mm to 75 x 50mm would give the trailer the necessary strength while also adding weight to help make the suspension ‘work’ (more on that later). The 75 x 50mm main A-frame member size would be replicated for the bracing; and the quantity increased from two braces to three to add rigidity.

 

While slipper-style leaf springs work well for light loads on bitumen roads, they are simply not up to task or the demands of places like the Peninsula Development Road. Fitting up a set of eye-to-eye springs was not so much of a challenge as engineering weight into the trailer to get some flex into these minimum 700kg (rated pair) leaves, which were the lightest we could find at the time. With a hull weight of around 100kg and an outboard tipping in at 50kg it was important to try and have the trailer weigh as much as reasonably practical. An additional structural bracing detail was added to the main A-frame using 50 x 25mm section for this purpose. Caravan shocks were added to assist with dampening out any rebound.

 

Keel rollers on a factory boat trailer are quite literally few and far between. To reduce the transfer of stresses to the hull from pounding along corrugated roads, a full-length keel roller bed was engineered using 50 x 50mm angle and a set of 12 keel rollers were spaced at 200mm centres. It was quite conceivable that at some point we would find ourselves having to ‘skull drag’ the boat from its sandy resting place up onto the trailer – and for this reason the roller bed was extended past the rearmost bracing member and angled to help lift the hull up and onto the trailer. In wrapping up the main A-frame, all major joints would be gusseted using 5mm plate for peace of mind.

 

The beauty of customisation is that it gives full control and artistic license to the individual to produce a completely tailored outcome specific to one’s needs. In considering where and how the boat would be used, a list of additional requirements was created and factored into the build.

 

From Day 1 we were particularly keen on matching the track width of the trailer to that of my GU Patrol. As a finished product the entire package would find itself on the islands of south-east Queensland at least once a year… and it just made good sense that the trailer wheels should exactly follow the line of the tow vehicle (at least in a straight line, anyway). Boat trailers are typically engineered to have the hull as low to the ground as possible for variety of good reasons. Manufacturers achieve this, in part, with a wider wheel track that sees the hull nestle in between the guards. Making our trailer narrower would see the hull sit above the guards – which would throw up a few challenges to ensure clearances were adequate between guard and hull and guard and tyre.

 

We considered independent suspension to be overkill on such a small trailer, when a beam axle assembly would get the job done in almost all situations. To increase height under the axle and provide a better overall outcome, we settled on a 15-inch wheel and tyre combo. A significant amount of discussion took place on this subject before a decision was taken; with serious consideration given to matching the rolling stock on my GU Patrol. As it would turn out, the decision to run with the 15-inch wheels was a good one… as it simplified the construction of the spare wheel bracket and the clearance and spacing of the guard to the top of the tyre and the guard to the underside of the hull (a by-product of the narrower track width we identified earlier).

 

Keeping the tow vehicle safe and dry on open beach launches has been assisted with the addition of a simple slide-out draw bar extension. Fixed in place by a pair of tow hitch pins, an additional 1,800mm is available for days where a small rolling swell is likely to lick at the vehicle’s rear wheels. With the snapping handbags of Cape York and the ever-present threat of Irrukanji along Fraser Island’s western shore during the summer months, the ability to remain dry while traversing the full trailer length during launch and retrieve was considered fairly important for obvious reasons. Chequer-plate walkways on either side of the central roller bed presented neither the most expensive (nor the most difficult) challenge we faced with the build; but that enhancement remains one of the more functional outcomes in terms of safe launches and retrievals.

 

Since the invention of the internal combustion engine, the scourge of the long-distance traveller has been fuel storage. In our situation, be it diesel for the Patrol or petrol for the outboard, lengthening the draw bar slightly to accept twin 20L jerry can holders has increased our range to a much more respectable level while also allowing the entire winch post assembly to shift forward to accept a slightly larger hull down the track.

 

Wrapping up the build were several other nifty details that helped make for a more functional product. Each guard and leaf spring assembly has been fabricated to allow the entire axle and wheel assembly to shift forward or rearward to enable balancing of the whole rig based upon the results of road testing. We chose to fit an Alko off-road ball coupling to improve off-road ability, while allowing for differing tow vehicles utilising a standard 50mm tow ball. A pair of recovery points have been factored into the rear structural arrangement of the trailer to allow a winch to be attached for any manoeuvring or straightening exercises on the tracks. It is probably important to mention here that these recovery points will serve for winching of the combined boat and trailer weight only and they’re not for snatch recovery.

 

While very little of this planning and building was straightforward, it was by no means overly difficult either. Patience was without doubt the key ingredient during the process which allowed for all reasonable ideas to be brainstormed, design problems to be identified and engineered out and practical outcomes that we weren’t satisfied with to be dismantled (or ground back) and redone. The work was completed in a domestic garage with a reasonable quality cut-off saw, a MIG welder and a grinder… and the enthusiasm of one bloke who was particularly up for the challenge. For a fraction of the cost of a new off-road boat trailer (but with complete customisation) we have added an extra dimension to our touring travels. Whether it makes us better fisherman… only time will tell!

 

Helpful Links

http://www.valmontcoatings.com/technical/specifications-certifications

https://www.couplemate.com.au/

http://www.trailersparesdirect.com.au/Default.aspx

https://www.qld.gov.au/transport/registration/register/caravan

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4WDing for dummies

Teaching Old Dogs New Tech

CLICK HERE TO READ THIS STORY IN OUR ONLINE MAGAZINE

The number of 4WD vehicles being purchased or leased by tradies is growing every year and aftermarket companies are jumping on board and pimping the vehicles on the showroom floor. This means there are loads of off-road capable 4WDs being used solely as daily drivers instead of heading bush and crawling up some gnarly tracks.

 

Some mates decided it was time to learn a few things about driving in low range and they thought I might be the right bloke to educate and empower them to get off the bitumen more often. I accepted and decided to take them up to the Victorian High Country. I rang a buddy in Queensland who’s explored Oz as much as I have and convinced him to head home to Victoria for a few days and give me a hand.

 

When organising a meet and greet with a group of 4WDrivers, there are two places I highly recommend: The pub for a counter meal or a Bunnings carpark over a couple of snags. For this trip it was decided to congregate at the Mansfield Hotel and I was shocked when everyone arrived on time. Over parmas and steaks, the group gelled… and we were soon heading towards Buller before leaving the bitumen behind on Buttercup Road.

 

At Tomahawk Hut we met up with the final two vehicles before the education process began. The group consisted of the following vehicles and crew:

Andre – 2012 Ford Ranger XLT – graded Fraser Island;

Chris – 2013 Ford Ranger XLT – didn’t get stuck at Inskip Point;

Clair and Amanda – 2017 Ford Ranger XLT – smashed Skytrek in the Flinders and dabbled in the High Country, also completed a 4WD driving course;

Chris – GQ Patrol SWB ute – born in the HC; and

Neil – GQ Patrol SWB ute – raised in the HC after escaping from England.

 

The first lesson we dished out was about tyre pressures in the High Country. Generally, all the tracks contain the same ingredients – clay, rocks, wheel ruts and erosion mounds. Throw in the occasional river or creek crossing and you have it all. Dropping your tyre pressures will increase your footprint which in turn will provide better traction and reduce the risk of punctures due to the tyre rolling over the rocks instead of pushing into them. The same goes for a camper trailer and I advised Clair to drop his trailer tyres down to 20psi to start off with.

 

Number 3 Track was the first challenge with some good gradients, tight switchbacks, large erosion mounds and loose and shingly rocks. Low range was the suggestion for each of the newbies. Andre, Chris and Clair were given the opportunity to play with the rear eLockers and Hill Launch Assist in their Rangers on their way up onto the ridgeline and into our first camp.

 

Pushing to 1,500m, we debriefed and prepared dinner around the fire. An icy wind picked up as the sun dipped below the treeline and everyone soon retreated to the comfort of their swags. Day two saw the camp engulfed by the clouds. The gear was damp, with the sun straining to break through. It was eerie as we departed camp – heading to Razorback Hut for a look around. It was disgraceful to find toilet paper strewn at the back of the huts, especially as there are pit toilets in place. Some people have no clue.

 

By the time we reached the iconic Craigs Hut, the skies had begun to clear and we enjoyed brilliant views across to Mount Cobbler. This was the first visit for almost all the crew – so some time was spent reading the storyboards and snapping away on cameras.

 

The biggest challenge on the trip was up next: Clear Hills Track up to Mount Stirling. We dropped the camper trailer off at Monument Track before briefing the group on what to expect on the drive to Stirling. The object was to watch the line taken by the previous vehicle and follow (as closely as possible) the same line.

 

Clear Hills Track is very steep in places and chopped up badly by traffic and weather. Add some loose rocks and off-camber angles and some fun can be had. Clair and Amanda were following me. With only one short section causing any concern, an obvious line turned deceptive with no grip achievable on the dusty surface. It was better to drive the ‘harder’ line (that was in fact much easier).

 

It was Andre and then Chris who had a little bit of difficulty at the same spot. Andre’s Ranger is stock standard height and his rear bar hangs awfully low. The lack of flexibility tore a rear mudflap from its place and minor track building had to be completed for the Rangers to get up the step. Chris has a 2-inch lift in his Ranger but he had problems with traction.

 

Upon reaching the peak of Mount Stirling, the adrenaline was flowing strong as vehicles were inspected for pinstriping or bent side steps. It was here that we said goodbye to Chris, Chris and Neil who had to go back to work the next day. After the happy snaps were taken, and the pies put in the oven, the rest of us turned around and headed back down Clear Hills Track.

 

The descent can be just as difficult as the ascent, with the same angles reversed and many erosion mounds leaving drivers with no sight of the track. Hill Descent Control was put through its paces as Clair and Andre practised the skill of driving down a steep track.

 

We enjoyed a quick lunch before hitching up the camper again and tackling Monument Track. It was on this track that I coached Clair on how overriding the electric brakes of the camper would help reduce his downhill speeds. It was going well until he realised that there were issues with the hitch and tongue on his Ranger. The nut on the Treg Hitch was working itself loose, causing the hitch and receiver to jackknife. On a flat section of the track, we swapped the tongue and spring washer from my vehicle and provided a better fit for the Treg Hitch. We had no more problems after that.

 

A quick walk up to Bindaree Falls was enjoyed before taking the Bluff Link Track. Unfortunately the day was getting away and while I would have preferred the more picturesque and challenging 16 Mile Jeep Track, the boring link track was the quickest route to reach Bluff Track.

 

We passed a parked grader on the climb up towards Bluff Hut, with contractors busy carrying out track maintenance along the length of the route. The erosion mounds were the biggest I’ve seen, and no-one escaped scraping on one or two of them. The flies at Bluff Hut were minimal; strange really, but we didn’t stay long. Everyone was keen to get to camp after a long day of driving.

 

I knew of a spot just north of the hut that was right on the ridgeline, with jaw-dropping views from either side. When the other vehicles pulled into camp behind me, all I heard was ‘WOW’ on the UHF. We quickly set up and admired the views before hunkering down by the crackling fire with a hearty meal.

 

It was a stunning morning as everyone got stuck into some bacon and eggs before packing up camp. We left the camper trailer and followed the roadworks up to Lovicks Hut – meeting the excavator working hard on the track, just before Picture Point. We couldn’t proceed so we backtracked to Lovicks for a look and then stopped on one of the open plains and stretched our legs for a while. Once we hitched up the camper trailer again, we made our way down to Frys Hut via the Bluff Link Road and Brocks Road. A swim in the Howqua River was enjoyed before coals were prepared for the final night’s feast. Pork on the spit with roast vegies, corn and gravy constituted most of the menu; and Amanda cooked up some stewed apples picked from a tree next to Frys Hut.

 

As we sat around the fire that night, we reflected on the lessons learnt over the last few days. Driving slowly while using the vehicle traction aids was the biggest lesson; as well as how to tow a camper trailer in challenging conditions. Clear Hills Track was the obvious winner of ‘Best Track’ but ‘Best Camp’ couldn’t be agreed upon. As darkness fell and the fire settled, Andre pulled out his guitar and entertained us for a couple of hours… the perfect way to finish the night and the adventure.

 

Fact File

WHERE: Mount Stirling, with Mansfield the closest point for fuel and supplies.

WHEN TO GO: A lot of the tracks are seasonally closed from the Queen’s Birthday weekend in June until 1 November. Summer is a great time as it’s a bit cooler up high.

WHAT DO I NEED: A full tank of fuel, water to keep hydrated, food and some warm clothes. It can snow even in February in the High Country.

CAN I UPDATE SOCIAL MEDIA: Limited opportunities – up high great, down low bad.

WARNINGS: Keep an ear to the local radio for weather and bushfire updates.

TRACK RATINGS: In the dry, high clearance and traction control/low range are required. In the wet, some tracks are impassable or require lockers.

TOP TIP

Learn how to read a map so that you can determine how steep a track is by the distance between the contour lines.

Contacts and Info:

Parks Victoria

http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/safety/fire,-flood-and-other-closures

Vic Emergency

http://emergency.vic.gov.au/respond/

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Touring in a stock Fortuner – it can be done

Toyota Fortuner Update: Touring in a Toyota Fortuner

CLICK HERE TO READ THIS STORY IN OUR ONLINE MAGAZINE

When we first picked up the Toyota Fortuner, it was on the back of our massive mid-size wagon comparison (which it won). One thing each tester noted, was how practical the cargo area of the Fortuner was.

 

It would easily accept touring modifications such as storage drawers or a drop-down fridge slide, unlike many others in this field. And why is this? Well it’s because the floor in the cargo area is nice and flat, without a massive lip at the end to work around. Well that got us thinking, how much gear can you fit in the back of a Fortuner? Quite a bit as it turns out. At the end of the day, this was made for touring and it’s a fair guess that it will be popular with families. While we would recommend removing the third row seating if you don’t require 7-seats for as much space as possible, you can certainly fit a solid load into the back of the Toyota Fortuner. This would also need to be checked in your local area if removing seats is allowed legally. So while it’s packed, we better head off on a trip. Be rude not to, right?